The city of Zagreb is probably at the bottom of most people's lists of places to see before they die, but surprisingly this place has a lot to offer. Our accommodations, while a little too high in a building without an elevator, are smack in the centre of town, offer a somewhat uncomfortable attempt at a queen bed- seemingly large stools pushed into a square with a3 inch mattress/topper. The place is clean, has a fully equipped kitchenette with fridge, two burner stove and a microwave.
The main square is less than 1/4 mile away and there are literally hundreds of bars and restaurants within the same approx. distance.
We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and were amazed to see that the open air market in the main open area, Jelacic Square, was still in full swing at 7pm, even though it supposedly closes at 3pm.
A somewhat late evening meal left us a little too full to go to sleep right away, so we took some time to wander. The first side street we encountered proved to be THE street to hang out on a Saturday night. Thalciceva (with a few extra accents that my keyboard wont accommodate, or rather I am too lazy to learn!) with a bar located about every feet and the occasional restaurant thrown into the mix, this place is clearly a beer lovers dream, with at least 10-12 on tap offerings at most places.
The city centre is divided into 2 sections, Upper Town and Lower Town. Upper Town was originally 2 separate towns that eventually merged some 200 years ago. The two towns are roughly 150 feet apart in terms of vertical height, the upper part of Upper Town being reached either by funicular or a combination of steeply sloping passageways or stairs. While many of the buildings in this area are eye catching, the most unique is St. Marks Church with a roof decorated with tiles that show 2 different Coats of Arms. The left is a symbol representing northern Croatia, on the right the city of Zagreb. In spite of it being a Sunday, the church appears locked up tight except for Worship in the morning.
In other parts of Gradec, the original name of this area, one can find the oldest pharmacy of the country (1355). Again closed because it was Sunday. Some quirky museums and ornate buildings could be seen in the streets around St Mark's Square, once past the Stone Gate and it's adjacent chapel the roads twist and wind back down towards Kaptol, the adjacent upper town.
Here one can find a smaller square where the (Dolac) Sunday Market was in full swing for most of the morning and early afternoon.Grapes and honey products seemed to be the main items with potatoes and various peppers and berries making up their fare share of offerings. Off to the side a small fish market was offering fresh squid, cuttlefish, chunks of tuna and various whole fish on ice, all seemingly so fresh it had been caught early that morning.
Just over from the Dolac and visible from much of the town is Zagreb's Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the Saintly Kings, Stephen and Ladislaw- try saying that fast 3 times!
Identified primarily as "The Cathedral, it is not a really old building. Completed in Neo-Gothic style, and with one spire currently shrouded and being renovated it seemed rather unwieldy and a little top heavy from the distance. Some distance from the entrance at the edge of the square is a tall statue topped with a gilded Madonna and surrounded by several similarly guilded angels.
The current church which replaced an older one destroyed by an earthquake in 1880 was built using limestone, which, it seems is too porous for the damp and freeze cycles of Zagreb winters, hence the shrouding of the spires as the limestone is slowly being replaced with stronger materials.
A brief view of the interior showed as a somewhat interesting place of worship with a few significant statues and monuments as well as a unique main alter- google if you have the time or inclination,
A walk through the Lower town proved to be less interesting than the Upper town- a few small parks and some dull Yellow Palaces, government buildings and concert halls, much from the reign of Tito. Time and a general lack of energy prevented a more in depth view of this area. Note to elf and others, Zagreb probably needs a full 2 days and 3 nights to see it at a reasonable pace.
While it was our last stop in Croatia, I think a future visit is due. The central hill towns of Istria were missed due to lack of time and there are other islands to see besides the ones around Hvar ( which we explored in 2014. Eastern Slovenia was omitted from our agenda and being so close to Zagreb, could be easily included with a brief car rental or public transport.
Monday, our last morning in Zagreb was spent largely packing and getting organized for our flight to Barcelona, an easy local tram ride brought us to the bus station, where they conveniently hide the airport buses behind a screen at the far right of the airport whuch can be excessed through a storefront marked CroatiaBus lines.
Next stopover- Munich, then on to the Big B.
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